His A/W 09 collection was his most fully realized vision yet – taking the Austrian Arts and Crafts movement , the Wiener Werkstätte as inspiration. This translated to a distinctly European feel of impeccably angular tailoring, decadent leathers and fur trims and super-sexy boots paired with everything that bordered on fetishistic. He then proceeded to quietly stun naysayers with his debut womenswear collection shown in Paris in February, showcasing a beautifully dark and Gothic collection that was an even more marked departure from his American roots. Prior to the Paris debut of his menswear collection for S/S 10, he took time out to talk to Ponystep.

Kin Woo: Congratulations on your Swarovski win! You’ve been nominated before – did you really not prepare a speech?

Tim Hamilton: Thank you! I was debating writing a speech.  I had read a few predictions that said I was the likely winner having been nominated twice prior, but I didn't real believe it.  Besides I'm still a tiny company.  A lot of my staff is a revolving team of interns.  So, I didn't exactly have too many people to thank.  Of course I forgot a few important people to thank.  I thanked them after. 

KW: Does winning the award make you feel the need to push your design aesthetic even more extreme in the future and not play it safe?

TH: Certainly the recognition of my work is an incentive to continue to evolve my collections, but to be honest the design process is the fun, indulgent part.  I now feel more pressure to push the business portion.  That's the real stress.

KW: With your A/W 09 menswear collection, please tell us how you came to use the Wiener Werkstätte as the starting point for the collection.

TH: My friend opened up a gallery named Werkstätte I spent some time with her looking at a lot reference books from that era. I was fascinated with the whole vienna workshop history. So I had this imagination of how a designer artist community would dress now in this time. When i speak of inspiration its all interpretive. How it will ultimately come across is something you can't predict. 

KW: There is a very intriguing oddness to the menswear collection – the proportions are off and the layering is artful. It’s almost like you are using your classic design background at Ralph Lauren and twisting it in a new direction.  Would you agree with this?

TH:  I like that description. I like the "oddness" comment.  I can't say its molded what I do now, or even it affects how I design.

KW: Tell us about your experiments with fabrics this season.

TH: Fabric is the key element for me at the start every season. For A/W 09 I used a lot of dense silk twills, enlarged weaves and jacquard felt patterns for outerwear. I wanted to create something that was cold in appearance, but still luxurious when you feel it.   

KW: Tell us about the boots which I love. You’ve featured them in Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter, pairing it with trousers and even shorts! There seems to be an almost fetishistic element to them that makes them very desirable.

TH: I’m happy with how striking the footwear came out. I think it adds a complete feel to what I do. Military boots have been done a bazillion times but I wanted to keep them cleaner. I think the boots have a lot of longevity. I like that the styling gives off a tough fetish feel. Very urban. Or old German S&M feel.  

KW: How does showing in Paris filter through into your design? Does showing there make you feel you can take more risks? 

TH: I had hopes of showing in Paris for some time now.  I didn't change the design, nor would I have regardless of where I show.  I would've showed the same thing in NY as well.   

KW: How was your experience of showing in Paris last season with your first womenswear collection? Did the success of that spur you on into showing your menswear there also this season? 

TH: It was TOUGH! The Parisians work at a totally different speed. Its not a bad thing cause everything works out in the end but I'm one of those types that likes to plan ahead, not last minute.  As far as the reaction I think Paris is the toughest city to break into with Fashion. Thats why I chose it.  I'm used to things not being easy.  You have to earn it.  I always come to Paris to sell collection and I felt if I'm going to do my first ever show why not start in Paris if they will have me. 

KW: The womenswear collection you debuted in Paris was strong, sculptural, at times very dramatic; which probably shocked many people who previously may have seen you as this preppy American sportswear designer. Was that intentional? How did you find making the switch to womenswear?

TH: I grew up with a sort of split cultural upbringing. My mother was Lebanese and wore a lot of black, crazy outfits and my father an English-American blue collar man. Both have had effect on how I approach my designs.  I never intended to do a women's versions of the men's collection.  I found designing womens wear to be much less restrictive than men’s.  They both will come from the same place and they both have their challenges.  

KW: With most menswear designers, designing is autobiographical. Do you have a muse in mind for the womenswear?

TH: It starts with my late mother but I think my friends have a lot of influence as well. To single out one muse is too limiting.

KW: You started off as a small business operating out of your apartment. Surely winning the Swarovski award and showing womenswear means your business is expanding. How do you approach doing this in this recession?

TH: I am expanding, but I'm really just trying to keep the momentum going.  As a small business owner I just continue to focus on my goals and what I've been doing.  I'm not going to back down.     

KW: What can we expect from your S/S 10 collection you’ll be showing in Paris?

TH. It’s still work in progress. We are still cutting patterns and sewing samples. I would say expect the unexpected 'cause I sure as hell am. EEEEEK!!!

www.timhamilton.com