Editor’s Letter
Issue 04 FW12

So, while slightly later than originally anticipated, our fourth issue is finally with you! I am frequently asked what the theme of our issue will be, and while they will often subconsciously assume a general direction or perspective, I always reaffirm our ongoing position that we don’t work to that brief. There isn't a brief. Once again, Ponystep issue 4 is a celebration of wonderful people, inspiring people. A particular highlight this issue was working with the incredible David Bailey. Shooting a portfolio of London’s most infamous transvestites, he was rude and outspoken, but always charming. Suffice to say, he convinced each of our subjects to disrobe and pose starkers in front of his camera. The resulting pictures form a real snapshot of London's vibrant club scene – currently set alight by our peacocking trans friends.

And it wasn’t just the London scene that captured our imagination. New York has always been the transatlantic cohort to London's colourful club scene, and the new word about town is Westgay – the weekly club night hosted by Ponystep favorite, Frankie Sharp. Shot by Francesco Carozini, I was adamant that I didn't want a series of ‘straight-ups’ – thankfully a direction shared by Francesco. Instead we rounded up Westgay’s crazier regulars including Natalia Kills, Casey Spooner and the clubs notorious go-go boys and shot them mid-party at the club’s spiritual home, Westway (see what they did there!)

And so, back to London. With so much hype surrounding our homegrown design talent, it’s hard to know which one of the many breakthrough designers to hone in on. While by no means a breakthrough designer, Christopher Kane is still very young, relatively speaking. While being linked to several different major fashion houses, one thing is evident, Christopher Kane, his eponymous and much-loved line, will always be with him. Having known Christopher since his Central Saint Martin days, I have come to know that he is notoriously press-shy, more so if there is a camera involved. For that reason, it was fitting to ask his long-term friend, mentor and former tutor Professor Louise Wilson OBE to do the interview. More of a chat than an official ‘interview’, Louise is keen to enforce his incredible work ethic – a fact so rarely discussed among the universal applause and adulation of London’s hot design ‘glitterati’. There are designers for whom fame is the ultimate accolade, and others, like Christopher, who prefer the work to make the grand statement.

And, while on the notion of grand statements, they don’t come bolder than our cover story. As many people may know, I have been a personal friend of Siobhan Donaghy for many years. She DJ’d at my first club night Golf Sale and gave the first live performance of her second album, Ghosts, at BoomBox. When the news broke of the original Sugababes line-up reforming, I couldn't have been happier. So overdue is this reunion that I think anyone that remembers One Touch or the breakthrough Overload, collectively saw this as a huge ‘Fuck You’ to the latest incarnation, and more so to the corporate machine that it represented. Yes, there were issues to be resolved (which were, co-incidentally), but the public response to this latest ‘comeback’ couldn’t have been more supportive and promising. Mutya Keisha Siobhan as they are now known (though the moniker MKS looks more likely to become the norm) are a pop rarity. A girl band that write their own material. That don’t conform to the harsh stereotype of how a girl group should look. Three girls that couldn’t be more different, yet when they sing, something special happens. Having heard a few tracks from the forthcoming album, it was a no-brainer that these girls should be our cover stars.

Other notable highlights for me this issue include Phoebe Arnold’s main fashion story with celebrated artist Chas Ray Krider. Shot in Ohio, the story is a celebration of style, sex and shoes. NY-based Carlton Davis shot a tongue-in-cheek bevy of boys and buns, while Danielle Levitt went downtown in Baltimore to spend a weekend with the irrepressible Mink Stole.

While it would be easy to sit here and gesticulate about how incredible the fashion has been this season, or how the palette has really moved me this season, I won’t. That said, there have been so many great collections, but it’s the people that fascinate me more. The funny characters life throws at you – the curveballs. This is what matters to us at Ponystep. Of course, we adore fashion and clothes and make-up and the whole pleasurable experience of making images. That’s a given – why run a fashion magazine otherwise. But working with the likes of Mink Stole, Rossy de Palma, Amanda Lear, Angie Bowie, or any one of the amazing people in the magazine – that’s what we live for!

— Richard Mortimer, London December 2012